It's an intimate, no-frills place - friendly dogs roam freely, fold-out chairs and tables are strewn about - that makes you feel like you're in the comfort of someone's home. As we sat under guava trees, surrounded by the sounds of Mexican music, Alma, who helms the operation, graciously welcomed us in for a multicourse feast that had us audibly mmm-ing after every bite: first, refreshing guava juice, then belly-warming xoconostle soup with corn larga (a thick tortilla topped with beans, cactus, and dried jerky) and for dessert, fritters with tomato jam. But we were here for El Alma de la Cocina, an unassuming restaurant where cooks work to preserve the region's traditional cuisine using fresh ingredients grown on the on-site farm.
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